How Exactly To Wire Amplifier To Stock Head Unit Without RCA Output
Most aftermarket receivers provide preamp output from RCA jacks. Within this scenario, the signal is carried by an RCA patch cable from the receiver for the amp. In case your receiver doesn't have preamp outputs, many amplifiers feature loudspeaker-level inputs, which have built-in converters which step the loudspeaker-level signal down into a preamp level signal adequate to the amp.
Although automobile amplifiers come with RCA input jacks, your inventory stereo may not support the choice to send audio through RCA outs. You can nevertheless join the amplifier with a "Line Level" connection. You connect one of the audio wires currently linked to your stereo into the amplifier's "Line Level" input jack. All you require is enough wire to make the link from your trunk's speaker to your own amplifier.
The black, or lined, cable will function as negative; the red will function as good. Give yourself enough slack so that the connection will soon be secure, with no possibility of becoming unplugged. Make certain the " " and "-" wires are connected to the same polarity as the loudspeakers.
In case your amp doesn't have speaker-level inputs, a powerful and affordable line output converter will allow you to step the speaker-level signal down to preamp level. Make sure the patch cords supplying the musical signal for the amplifier are kept well away from potential sources of sound, such as brake light wires or rear window defroster wires.
If you use the next system get a line output converter (LOC). Tap the LOC inputs in your back channel speakers and run RCA's from the LOC to your own amp. The system shown in the link also has a trigger cable that you just connect to the remote terminal of your amp. Should you wish you may get a less expensive LOC and only run a switched 12V source to the amp.
Join the RCA patch cables (included with most kits) to your radio's RCA preamp outputs (tape them together so they don't come apart), and route the cable to the OPPOSITE SIDE of the automobile from the power cable. It's important to separate the patch cables from the electricity wires to avoid potential noise problems. Partially reinstall the radio in the dash (not all the way, in case you need to fix a problem later).
Remove the radio from the dash to obtain the turn on wire (typically a blue ). Strip the insulation off a small section of this wire coming from your radio (as pictured), wind the turn on lead (included with the kit) around it, and solder it.
Although automobile amplifiers come with RCA input jacks, your inventory stereo may not support the choice to send audio through RCA outs. You can nevertheless join the amplifier with a "Line Level" connection. You connect one of the audio wires currently linked to your stereo into the amplifier's "Line Level" input jack. All you require is enough wire to make the link from your trunk's speaker to your own amplifier.
The black, or lined, cable will function as negative; the red will function as good. Give yourself enough slack so that the connection will soon be secure, with no possibility of becoming unplugged. Make certain the " " and "-" wires are connected to the same polarity as the loudspeakers.
In case your amp doesn't have speaker-level inputs, a powerful and affordable line output converter will allow you to step the speaker-level signal down to preamp level. Make sure the patch cords supplying the musical signal for the amplifier are kept well away from potential sources of sound, such as brake light wires or rear window defroster wires.
If you use the next system get a line output converter (LOC). Tap the LOC inputs in your back channel speakers and run RCA's from the LOC to your own amp. The system shown in the link also has a trigger cable that you just connect to the remote terminal of your amp. Should you wish you may get a less expensive LOC and only run a switched 12V source to the amp.
Join the RCA patch cables (included with most kits) to your radio's RCA preamp outputs (tape them together so they don't come apart), and route the cable to the OPPOSITE SIDE of the automobile from the power cable. It's important to separate the patch cables from the electricity wires to avoid potential noise problems. Partially reinstall the radio in the dash (not all the way, in case you need to fix a problem later).
Remove the radio from the dash to obtain the turn on wire (typically a blue ). Strip the insulation off a small section of this wire coming from your radio (as pictured), wind the turn on lead (included with the kit) around it, and solder it.
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